How the Other Half Travels

Hello Mr. Giraffe

Hello Mr. Giraffe

One of the first countries we had talked about visiting in Africa was Botswana, but alas the Botswana economy is doing relatively well and tourism tends to cater to the up market, which needless to say is not us. So when we learned that there were overnight trips available from Vic Falls to Chobe National Park in Botswana, we were very excited.

The original plan was to do an overnight camping trip in the park with game drives, boat cruises and “sundowners”- game viewing at sunset with a little beverage of choice. Following the normal amount of confusion we of course were unable to do that trip. The alternative was to stay at a private lodge just on the Zim side of the border and then take a day trip to Chobe with the masses. I was a little skeptical that it would be as good, but it was a bit cheaper and our options were running out.

Remember that mantra: expect the worst, hope for the best? This time we unexpectledy experienced the very best. When we arrived at the lodge and went to our room to freshen up, Dave immediately became concerned. How much is this again? I swear she said it was cheaper than camping.

We enjoyed one of the most pleasant days of our trip. Dining on fantastic home cooked food made with fresh vegetables from the garden, taking a private guided cruise down the Zambezi, sitting quietly just meters away from a pack of 40 or more elephants and their babies, waking up in our private bungalow to the sounds of hippos along the banks of the river…so this is how people with money experience Africa! I highly recommend it. It was especially nice because it’s a very small, private lodge with incredibly personable folks who shared their tales of life in Zimbabwe (formerly Rhodesia I was reminded).

We realized it would be hard to top that day of indulgence, but the trip to Chobe National Park also proved rewarding. Chobe has the highest concentration of elephants in Africa, so sighting them is not hard work. Drive to the river. Simple as that. Cruising the Chobe River also affords fun hippo viewing and loads of water fowl.

Without knowing it or planning it, we gave ourselves a brief vacation from our travels. Meanwhile we also made it to one little corner of Botswana. No signs of Precious Ramotswe this time, but maybe we’ll make it back to Botswana in the future.

Victoria Falls – The Smoke That Thunders

Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls

We are so glad to be leaving Johannesburg that the thought of going anywhere else is appealing. Even a departure to Zimbabwe – yes, that Zimbabwe, land of 7000% inflation, of dictatorial rule (Our first dictator, yes!), and shortages of everything – sounded good. So we happily boarded our flight out of Jo’berg and didn’t look back, even though we’ll head back in a week.

To add to our delight somehow, magically, we ended up being bumped up to first class, providence was rewarding us for leaving Jo’berg, it’s the only explanation that makes sense. I’ve never had the privilege before, but I hope it happens again.

Flying into Vic Falls is like stepping into a movie about Africa. It looks exactly like it should – dry, flat and dusty. There’s little vegetation beyond low scrub and Acacia trees, and the locals are suitably colorful. When we checked into our rooms we asked the owner about security issues – we were coming from Jo’berg and the economy here is wrecked and far beyond anything we’ve ever experienced – she replied that you shouldn’t be out on the streets after dark because there had been reports of a male Bull Elephant prowling the area of late. We asked her again, expecting to be warned about well, you know, the locals. She dispelled any fears we had, explaining that the local population were not the type to get into that sort of trouble, and I have to say she was spot on. But Zimbabwe and it’s people, economy and government are a whole other blog entry. Let’s talk about Victoria Falls.

Victoria Falls are like Niagara Falls in that they are both huge waterfalls that divide two countries. You can view the falls from both the Zimbabwe and Zambian sides. If you come here you owe it to yourself to view them from both the Zim and Zam sides. In my opinion Zim has the better part of the falls, but the Zam side is more impressive. You can get closer, and the most dramatic views are on that side. The best view is probably from the bridge downstream on the Zambezi. The bridge is in the “No Mans Land” between Zim and Zam, which is another plus.

Vic Falls is also probably a contender for “Adrenaline Capitol” of Africa. You can do a stupid amount of stupid stuff here: Bungie Jump, Gorge Slide, Parasailing, Rafting, Parachuting, pretty much everything you can do that will get you in the hospital. In addition, if those things don’t do you in, you can go on Safari and see a bunch of animals that can put you in the hospital too.

Vic Falls should be high on your list of things to see if you’re planning to come to this side of the world. Were a bit worried we’d have trouble filling a full week here, but it wasn’t a issue at all, the Falls are a place that shouldn’t be rushed. But if you’re looking for a rush, they can provide that too.

Hong Kong Part Deux

Be Like Water

Be Like Water

Wow, it’s hot in Hong Kong! When we were here in May it was just steamy, now it’s downright unpleasant. Thats not the only thing that changes quickly in Hong Kong: a bakery and Vegetarian Restaurant that we loved on our first trip were closed on our second visit – only two months later. The pace of change in China is quick.

A second trip to Hong Kong is required for us on this trip, and very welcome, we loved it first time around. Hong Kong is also the only city we can fly from to get to Africa on our OneWorld Explorer ticket, so here we are.

The timing couldn’t be better. Hong Kong is hosting the Barclays Asia Cup this year, and Liverpool FC (my favorite English team) is playing. Tickets weren’t availible online, so there was some chewing of fingernails when we go in. The first games were the same day we arrived. So we sprinted from the airport to our room to the stadium without tickets, but still got in to see Portsmouth v. Fulham and Liverpool v. South China FC.

Other activites involved visiting the Avenue of the Stars. It’s kind of like the Hollywood walk of fame – hand prints in concrete – but it’s for Hong Kong Kung Fu stars, and theres a statue of Bruce Lee.

We also took the Cable Car up to Victoria Peak while we weren’t waiting on the elevator at Miradoor Mansion (where we were staying in a cubby hole) for about a quarter of the time we were there (or so it seemed).

We love Hong Kong and hope to visit again real soon – you should too!