Poverty & Apartheid

Kliptown, Soweto

Kliptown, Soweto

Despite the bad wrap and the inconvenience of being a tourist in Johannesburg, a trip there is well worth it to be able to visit Soweto and spend time in the Apartheid Museum. I would recommend, however, that you do not visit both in the same day like we did. It’s a tremendous amount of information and emotion to absorb in one day.

We visited quite a few landmarks throughout Soweto, but one highlight was certainly walking through Kliptown with Bob and learning about his work with the SKY Foundation. Kliptown is one of several townships that make up Soweto (South Western Townships). At the surface it didn’t seem significantly different than some of the squatter settlements that I have visited in South America. People live in varied housing from more established brick houses to small tin shacks, the water and sanitation services are limited at best (there are 18 water faucets for 45,000 people!), and there appears to be some sense of community and self help support.

The real difference seems to be that the townships were intentionally set up as part of a state strategy. These communities are not just the result of people leaving the countryside to look for opportunity in an urban area. Some of the first inhabitants of Soweto were forcibly removed from Sophiatown, a vibrant black community closer to Johannesburg. Once the houses were bulldozed, a new white suburb replaced Sophiatown.

I’ll admit that for me, Soweto was just the name of a township where I imagined a lot of poor black folk live. I had no real sense of how it came to be or the important role that it played in the fight against apartheid. (Did I miss this day in school? Probably not.) Similarly, I can remember talk of apartheid and the boycotts against South Africa back in the 80s, but I could never have grasped the extent to which people were oppressed.

Though this trip is equal parts fun and adventure, it’s also been an opportunity to better understand other peoples’ history and their struggles. No matter how much we learned (or didn’t learn) in school or by reading books, there’s no substitute for seeing, listening and experiencing first hand.

The Viewing Game – Krueger National Park

Giraffes!

Giraffes!

After a little taste of wildlife viewing in Zimbabwe and Botswana, we were pretty psyched to head to Krueger National Park in northeastern South Africa for a four day safari. We were even more excited to be sharing the experience with friends from the States. Our friends Mary, Paul and Jack met up with us in Johannesburg for a week of sights and safari before they head to Uganda for a two week cycling trip. (Very cool!)

The thing about Krueger is that it’s huge – the size of Wales. As a result, you have to be extra patient while you ride about in an open vehicle with every ounce of clothing on wrapped up in a wool blanket. It is winter here. The chilly mornings and long drives are definitely worth it. Krueger has the greatest variety of animals in Southern Africa and is home to all of the “Big Five” – lions, leopards, buffalo, elephants and rhinos. Did you ever wonder why they call them the Big Five? I didn’t know and couldn’t figure out why the buffalo rated as one of the Big Five. I mean, we have buffalo in the U.S. Big deal. Turns out Big Five means the five most dangerous land mammals – or so I was told. Mr. Buffalo is big and bad.

While we didn’t spot any rhinos or leopards, we had many encounters with elephants and buffalo along with many other animals and birds. But perhaps the biggest highlight of our time in Krueger was watching lions. Our first sighting was on a night drive. As Dave was holding the spotlight in search of eyes glowing in the dark, we rolled right up on a pride of 10 lions laying at the very edge of the road. We were speechless. Uh, uh, uh stop please. No wait. Move ahead just a little. It just didn’t seem right to be sitting in an open vehicle feet away from these guys. Really amazing. And we were just about to give up on the night drive which until the lions had only resulted in seeing the glowing red eyes of the bush baby hopping from tree to tree. Not that I am underestimating the bush baby. he was cute too.

It always seemed kind of strange to me the whole idea of going on a safari. Like something you have to have a lot of money, khaki clothes and a funny hat to do. But observing wildlife in its own environment is absolutely fascinating and can be done for a resonable amount of money. Of course sometimes the animals don’t always stop and pose for you, but just watching a giraffe chomping on leaves is entertaining. These animals are just surreal. Well, ok not the buffalo so much, but we’ll still respect his bad-assness.

The Walls of Johannesburg

The Safest Place in Joberg - The Mall

The Safest Place in Joberg - The Mall

Johannesburg is very sketchy, the crime statistics are scary and in a place where even locals don’t go out at night tourists have to adapt. As a consequence of crazy crime, the security business is booming – everyone has high masonry walls around their homes and at least one of the following on top: razor wire, barbed wire, electric fencing, or crushed glass. Every home has a sign advertising the security firm they use and many include an “Armed Response” sign as well.

In a city where it’s not safe to go out after dark almost anywhere, and many places where you can’t go day or night hostels in Jo’berg take on Orwellian proportions. Their goal is to have everything you need on site so you don’t have to leave for any other reason than to go to the museum of the airport. And when you need to go there, they also operate their own in-house taxi service to get you from A to B. The message here is: do not interact with locals.

So why would you go to Johannesburg? Good question, well, it’s a huge transportation hub, and home to the busiest airport in Africa. If you come to South Africa, you are almost certainly going to land here, or transfer here – welcome to Johannesburg.

The Malls of Johannesburg
Here is a near complete list of “Safe” places to go in Jo’berg: The Mall, the other Mall, the Casino, and the Apartheid Museum. In our few days in Jo’Berg we spent a ridiculous amount of time at the Mall. In four days time we probably spent more time in shopping malls than we have in the last four years.

Jo’berg, the home of the happy (and safe) shopper.