England Notes for Budget Travelers

Bıg Ben

Bıg Ben

Ok. Budget is a bit of a misnomer. Let`s refer to it as a bleeding. The U.K. is an expensive place to visit when you`re on vacation and headed back to work and a paycheck next Friday. Coming from months in Asia, it was just painful to watch the pounds pour out of our wallet. In one week, we spent almost as much money as we did in two months of travel in India. Ok. So maybe this is not a fair comparison, but still. Ouch!
Like I said in Damn that Dollar, the prices are high and the exchange rate is a killer. So here are a few tips if you would like to make an attempt at budget travel ın England.

  • Transport can be expensive. Buses tend to be cheaper than the train for getting around the country, but if you`re traveling mid week and buy tickets in advance, you can get a good deal on the train. Getting around Central London is pretty easy on foot. For longer journeys around town or tired feet, the Tube is pleasant but pricey. If you are planning to do a few things outside the central area, it`s best to buy a Travel Card and take advantage of all day riding. Personally, I prefer the bus. A day pass is less than a return fare and much less than the Tube and you get the pleasure of riding around town on the double decker.
  • Lodging is a source of much pain. Hostels are plentiful throughout the U.K. but the prices are often more than you would pay for a decent hotel some places in the U.S and many are complete crap. In Liverpool our options were slim since much of the accomodation was already booked. We opted for the backpacker stalwart known as the Embassie. It`s the cheapest place in town, but only has dorm rooms. So we squeezed in with several others and tolerated the comings and goings of our roommates, one little shared bath and one long night of very loud snoring. You know it`s bad when Dave gets up, shakes a stranger`s bed and tells him to roll over. All this luxury cost us about $60 US a night. In London, we stayed at the massive Generator (better when pronounced with Schwarzenegger accent). The Generator is a full service mega hostel. It`s full of people, but is in a good location, clean, well serviced and provides free breakfast and good, cheap dinners, plus a free drink on arrival. A private room with bunk beds (we`ve gotten used to this), a sink and shared bath ran about $81 US a night.
  • Food runs the gamut in England. You can find all types and at all prices. Many restaurants offer good lunch deals, and there are plenty of cheap and tasty ethnic restaurants around town. A budget meal for the two of us was probably about $15 US – and it doesn`t get much cheaper than that.
  • Touristy Stuff is often free, though some entrance fees are a little pricey. We had considered visiting Buckingham Palace – which has additional private residences open this month – but tickets would have been around $60 per person. This was money better spent on LFC tickets – which were roughly the same price.

We`ve both been to England before, and will definitely return again, but with more cash and a paycheck waiting in the bank at home.

This is Anfield

Welcome to Liverpool

Welcome to Liverpool

The first thing you’ll need to know is that İ’m a soccer fan, next it’s important to know that İ’m a fan of Liverpool FC in England, since we happen to be in the UK it would make sense to go to a game in Liverpool right? Well, it’s not that easy these days.

Outside Looking In

Back in 2000 a few friends and myself did a “football” tour of the UK, we booked everything ourselves and got tickets to maybe six different games at different clubs, it was a great time and pretty easy to set up – those days are gone. Since then clubs have thrown up huge barriers to prevent scalping – you have to be a season ticket holder, a member of the “supporters” club or have a documented history of ticket purchases to get into a game – while this may prevent scalpers from getting tickets, one unfortunate consequence is that if you are a casual fan you’re last in line, and generally that means you’re locked out.

This is what happened top us. The game sold out weeks in advance, even through the opponents (Derby County) are the English soccer equivalents of the LA Clippers. We looked high and low, but there was nothing available. We went to Liverpool anyway, looking for a miracle.

When you’re looking for a miracle the best place to start is with a priest right? Enter Father Andrew Small – a former coworker of LeeAnne`s and whose hometown is Liverpool. A week or so before we arrived she mailed him to get his recommendations on what to do in town (beyond soccer). Father Andrew, knowing that I was a Liverpool fan, asked if we were going to a game. LeeAnne reported the sad news – we didn’t have tickets and it looked like we wouldn’t find any.

What happened next is what people in the movie industry call a “Reveal”: Father Andrew wrote back saying that his uncle – one Bobby Campbell – in fact use to play for Liverpool back in the day – before being the manager at Fulham and Chelsea – and he might be able to get us tickets. Not just normal tickets mind you – as a former player not only can he conjure tickets out of the air at the last minute he can also get “uber-tickets” – tickets for seats with the “Old Boys” – former Liverpool players. Well, that was unexpected.

Many hands make easy work. As we arrived ın Liverpool an ocean away in Washington Father Andrew was calling his Mum Alice in Liverpool, who was then calling her brother Bobby in London, who was calling his connections at the box office at Liverpool.

His contact at Liverpool FC turns out to be Brian Hall, (who set up the winning goal in Liverpools 1974 FA Cup win over Newcastle United). Who found a pair of seats for us and had his assistant drop off the tickets at Alice Small`s house, she was then was kind enough to meet us downtown for a cup of tea – lovely woman. All of this happened within 48 hours before the game, we (Okay, I) went from the deepest despair to the happiest glee, and I have many people to thank for it. We still aren’t sure how to repay everyone, someone suggested we name our first male child after Father Andrew, but I think he would be teased horribly if his first name was “Father” don’t you?

In the Game

Any game at Anfield would have been great – there is a terrific atmosphere there – but this game was remarkable if I do say so. Not just because of the scoreline – a 6-0 win for Liverpool – and not just because it was my first “real” Liverpool game, but with the win Liverpool went to the top of the League for the first tıme in over five years! Derby Co. has two Amerıcan players on the roster Eddie Lewis and Benny Feilhaber, and luckily they were spared the mauling that the rest of their team took. Derby never stood a chance really, but I’ll say this – their fans were great, and very vocal throughout the match. They had the whole stadium in tears with chants of “We’ll win 7-6″ in the closing moments of the match.

And the seats! Nothing to complain about here the tickets themselves said “Former Player” on them and we were sitting behind former Liverpool Captain Ron Yeats, and fellow great Geoff Strong – I was too petrified to talk to them, much less get my picture taken with them.

As we left the match everyone was deservedly excited with our team looking good and on top of the table. But an old fan who has obviously seen more that we have walked out of the stadium sighed and said to himself “Ah, delusions of grandeur again…”

The Aftermath

You know, a funny thing happened on the way home from the soccer match… Back in 2000 when we were in Liverpool we went to an FA Cup match between Everton and Tranmere, we took the bus up to the stadium, but after the match the buses were so full we ended up walking the 5km back into the city, and this time almost exactly the same thing happened – only this time I knew where I was going, no one twisted their ankle and there were no kids throwing rocks at us shouting “Go Back to Tranmere!”

Chillin’ in the ‘Pool

Paddys Wigwam

Paddys Wigwam

We ventured to Liverpool for very obvious reasons, but still without the promise of tickets to see the boys in red at Anfield. Luckily the tickets worked out, but I’ll let the footy fan tell his tale.

If you’re not a football (soccer) fan, chances are you’ve heard of Liverpool thanks to the Fab Four. Beatlemania has definitely drawn more than a few tourists to Liverpool. You can participate in any number of tours. We skipped the Beatles Story, among others, and instead took a stroll down Matthew St to see the sight of the Cavern Club. The original club closed with the construction of the underground rail in the 70s, but a new Cavern is alive and thumpin’ across the street.

And believe it or not, there is more to the ‘pool of life than LFC and Beatlemania. As we strolled around town on our first day – trying to walk off the groggies after a sleepless flight from South Africa – we stumbled on to Late at Tate. The Tate ıs one of the well known Tate museums and wanderıng into it on our first night in town was a pleasant surprise. We took in the Centre of the Creative Universe ‘Liverpool’ and the Avante Garde exhibit. True, that might be a bit of an exaggeration, but as the exhibit revealed, Liverpool has an interesting history of experimental and conceptual art as well as some great music. Our night at Late at Tate was topped off with a free local brew and tunes spun by Will Sergeant of Echo and the Bunnymen.

Liverpool is also full of interesting neo classical architecture and home to the the UK’s largest Anglican Cathedral which boasts the world’s highest and heaviest peal of bells in addition to the the world’s highest and widest Gothic arches. Approproately enough, just down Hope St is it’s Catholic brother, the Metropolitan Cathedral Christ the King. This building I would not count among the architectural wonders of Liverpool. It is fondly referred to as “Paddy’s Wigwam” due to its “interesting” style and the fact that many Irish once worshipped there. I have to say that it looks like an architectural mistake of the 80s, but in reality it was built in the 60s and surprisingly, had no predecessor.

Good old Liverpool proved to be well worth the visit!