So Long Southern Africa!

Like Sands Through the Hourglass...

Like Sands Through the Hourglass...

I feel like we owe Africa another trip. Five weeks here just doesn’t do this wonder corner of the world justice. We’ve had a chance to pop around a bit in Southern Africa, but I feel like we just peeped through a keyhole and the place has a lot more to offer.

That said, Southern Africa is a land of great countryside and crappy cities. That’s really true through out the world, but everything here seems to be amplified. The countryside is greater and the cities are much worse (Cape Town excluded) than almost everywhere else we’ve visited. And in terms of wildlife, S. Africa has the world beat, there’s an amazing diversity of things to see here.

To top it all off, it’s one of the few places we’ve traveled so far where the American Dollar is still strong! Thank goodness the currencies of Southern Africa are falling in value faster than the dollar, because you’ll need them all. Because transportation is so spotty and semi functional in this part of the world to get around you’ll either need to hire a car and drive yourself around or book yourself on a package tour – and neither option is cheap.

Travel in Southern Africa is one of the parts of the trip I have to admit I wasn’t super excited about, but it’s really exceeded all of my expectations, and I have to recommend you look into it.

Kanding Stopover

Rock Art

Rock Art

I have to say we really didn’t really give Kanding a chance, we were only there one night before we moved on to Chengdu. If we had more time it probably would have been worth a day or two. Lonely Planet describes Kanding as a mixture of Tibetan and Han culture. Translation: it’s an example of how the Han Chinese totally wipe out any signs of Tibetan culture, other than a few old people in traditional clothes. Han-ification is a slow but very steady process, and Kanding is a good place to witness older traditional buildings be replaced with charmless malls or recreations of traditional structures.

That said the scenery here is very dramatic as you approach from the west. The town is set in a very narrow valley with steep mountains rising on either side, and a very fast moving river in the middle. Once again, Chinese scenery saves the day. There are rumors of there being good hiking around and I wish we had time to investigate these. There are also a number of crazy cliff drawings around the city. They’re all Buddhist/Pagan figures drawn on shear cliff faces a few hundred feet off the ground.

One last thing – On our bus trip into town we passed about 200 military transports taking stuff to stations in Tibet. Han-ification doesn’t happen all by itself you know.